In Paris, 50 Shades of Chic

T hough Hedi Slimane wasn’t physically present in Paris, his Spring 2025 collection for Celine made a striking appearance. Eschewing a traditional runway show, Slimane opted for a film presentation that highlighted the latest ready-to-wear and accessory offerings. Attendees at the Celine offices had the opportunity to experience Slimane’s elegant, 1960s-inspired lady clothes up close.

Titled "Un été français," Slimane's collection was inspired by Françoise Sagan's 1965 novel *La Chamade*, which explores a woman's choice to leave her working-class lover for a man of higher social standing who appreciates her true self. This narrative was evident in Slimane's luxurious pieces, such as a sophisticated pink tweed skirt suit and chic pussy-bow blouses, alongside sequin twin sets paired with sleek pencil skirts. The collection exuded an air of expense and elevation, with just the right amount of playfulness to appeal to the It girls captivated by Slimane's cool-kid interpretation of the iconic French brand.

At Sacai, designer Chitose Abe embraced the French influence in her designs, creating sculptural pieces that are truly wearable art—what one might call "everyday couture." Her wardrobe staples, like this season's marinière-striped blazer-dress hybrid with deconstructed double-breasted buttons and a short train, packed a powerful punch. The sharply tailored dark-wash denim vest paired with a tiered ruffle skirt was equally striking. Abe's collection embodied the fierce spirit of fashion today, where making a bold statement takes precedence over playing it safe.

Stella McCartney is known for her statement-making designs. Last season, her t-shirts boldly proclaimed, "It's about fucking time," in response to the climate crisis. This season, she maintained her focus on sustainability while delivering a spring collection that was both stylish and desirable. McCartney's sexy suits looked powerful yet effortless.

Gabriela Hearst, inspired by goddesses, also created beautifully simple yet chic pieces. Her wispy bodycon dresses and elegant leather cape dresses were standout moments. Both McCartney and Hearst excel in crafting uncomplicated clothes that women can wear for their everyday lives, exuding a sense of nonchalant yet impeccable taste.

The theme of taste—good, bad, and everything in between—was a focal point for Demna at Balenciaga. Over the last decade, he has continually challenged and redefined our perceptions of luxury. This season, he delved deeper into his self-reflective "therapy," as he calls it, which has been a recurring motif in his recent collections.

Demna's inspiration stemmed from childhood memories of designing "collections" at his grandmother's dining table and putting on fashion shows for his family. This nostalgia was reflected in the show's setting, which featured an actual oversized table surrounded by chairs where editors, stylists, and VIPs, including Lindsay Lohan and Nicole Kidman, gathered for a quirky, punkish dinner party.

The collection focused on sexy dressing, beginning with models on the table-slash-runway wearing trompe-l'œil bodysuits adorned with prints of lacy lingerie. Demna mentioned that exploring this direction was a challenge for him, as he is known for his bold, exaggerated silhouettes. He aimed to venture into uncharted stylistic territory.

True to his aesthetic, the collection included many of Demna's signature elements: a jacket with a lapel made of upright jeans, assemblage hoodie looks, peaked shoulder gowns, and Cristobal Balenciaga-inspired shapes. It felt like a deeply personal collection, showcasing Demna's commitment to pushing boundaries while doubling (or even tripling) down on his unique vision, which fundamentally rejects traditional notions of chic.

"The fashion world is trying to be so perfect and impeccable," Demna remarked post-show. "For me, that's not what fashion is. Fashion needs to get messed up. It needs to get fucked up."