Big Ideas Dominate at Paris Fashion Week

T his summer, Paris hosted the Olympic Games, and while many locals grumbled and vacated the city, the world tuned in as the French capital illuminated the realms of fashion, music, and sport. Paris Fashion Week, an event so frequent that even waiters and taxi drivers are aware of the traffic jams and enthusiastic crowds (not to mention the unexpected appearances of stars like Cardi B), feels almost routine to the city’s residents. To them, it’s akin to an episode of *Emily in Paris.

Nevertheless, Paris Fashion Week remains the pinnacle of the global fashion calendar, attracting both major brands and emerging designers from around the globe. Compared to other fashion weeks, it boasts a larger scale, longer duration, and often serves as a launchpad for innovative trends.

For example, designer Chemena Kamali's second show for Chloé has reignited a boho chic revival, showcasing ruffled chiffon dresses and caped jackets. Similarly, Saint Laurent kicked off the week with a collection that pays homage to Yves Saint Laurent, featuring androgynous oversized suits and geek-chic glasses, marking a shift from Anthony Vaccarello's signature svelte silhouettes. Such styles are likely to permeate mass-market retailers and may even influence red-carpet fashion, with Kamala Harris reportedly a fan of Chloé's designs.

Amid speculation of significant changes at prominent fashion houses, online commentators eagerly await Sean McGirr's second collection for Alexander McQueen and Alessandro Michele's debut for Valentino on Sunday. Yet, the future remains uncertain, and the anticipation only adds to the intrigue.

It's evident that Paris fashion is undergoing a transformation. Recent seasons have seen a resurgence of theatrical shows, playful runway antics, entertainment crossovers, and an uptick in collaborations. Collections are increasingly diverse, often presenting a mix of ideas rather than cohesive narratives, while designers express frustration over commercial pressures amidst a slowdown in luxury spending.

New appointments like Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford and Sarah Burton at Givenchy offer a glimmer of hope for fans of visionary designers. Amid the extravagant venues and dreamy sets, what Paris excels at is its commitment to bold ideas and risks. This reverence for innovation is reflected in the soaring sales of Miu Miu's ready-to-wear line and the popularity of Alaïa's must-have accessories.

The Row's recent request for guests to refrain from taking pictures at its show exemplifies this exclusivity, while celebrated Japanese designers continue to unveil their collections in Paris. Up-and-coming talents like Vaquera, All-In, Duran Lantink, Hodakova, Fidan Novruzova, and Torisheju are also carving out their space in the city.

Supporting these emerging designers are shops like Dover Street Market and The Broken Arm, alongside independent magazines that find homes in venues like Yvon Lambert, where industry professionals and fashion enthusiasts eagerly await new ideas. This community spirit echoes the vibrant gatherings once held at the now-closed Colette boutique, with contemporary venues becoming hubs for fashion-forward minds.

Unfortunately, the torrential rain this week obscured many fashion looks at the shows—especially for those lacking a dedicated glam squad. Practicality reigned, with trench coats, black boots, and umbrellas dominating the scene.

Prada's buckle-belt bag has emerged as the accessory of the season, perhaps due to its generous distribution among editors. Many editors diverted from shows to explore a vintage pop-up by Milan-based Shop The Story, where stylist Nell Kalonji scored a stunning Ghesquiere-era Balenciaga jacket for €600. As always, the Alaia boutique on Rue Marignan remains a go-to for out-of-towners seeking exquisite finds.

Certain shows, like Rick Owens', invite a uniquely collective approach to dressing, where attendees become as much a part of the spectacle as the runway. At Palais de Tokyo, guests donned bee-keeper masks, heavy black makeup, and towering boots with Perspex heels, embodying a community feel that contrasts with the often transactional nature of larger shows. This season, Owens invited fashion students to walk the Hollywood-inspired runway, transforming them into sci-fi goddesses, reinforcing the sense of camaraderie that defines Paris.

At shows like Comme des Garçons and Junya Watanabe, guests pushed the boundaries of fashion, with one attendee wearing a stiletto as a beret and another in a jacket featuring six sleeves. Such events showcase how the avant-garde influences the personal styles of dedicated fans, creating a unified experience among attendees.

Among the week's highlights was a party marking Stefano Pilati's collaboration with Zara, hosted in a former bank in the second arrondissement. The event featured a lavish banquet and hundreds of candles, drawing both high-profile celebrities like Gisele Bündchen and Kate Moss, as well as fashion insiders. The atmosphere was electric, with models showcasing pieces from the collection that pay homage to Pilati's YSL legacy.

The following day, at Zara's beautifully designed flagship store on Rue du Bac, I encountered stylist Katy England and several editors eagerly shopping for flared black trousers, slouchy pinstripe suits, and halter-neck blouses. I left with nine new items, securing a tax refund in the process! By midday, most of the collection had sold out, with plans for restocking underway.

This strategy of creating buzz and offering immediate availability has resonated throughout the week. Rosie Huntington-Whiteley celebrated her collaboration with Wardrobe NYC with a dinner at Caviar Kaspia, where guests donned caviar-black pieces from the collection, characterized by sharp-shouldered blazers and figure-flattering leggings.

As the night progressed into a lively dance party, it became evident that the magic of Paris Fashion Week lies in its duality: an emphasis on grand ideas and celebrated designers, coupled with the thrill of discovering accessible pieces that elevate everyday life.